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Old 02-14-2012, 09:57 PM   #1
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Wink Rza's F22B2 Build

So I finally decided to create an engine build thread, for two reasons. The first is to help enlighten anyone deciding to build their F22B2 for boost. The second is to help me document my journey on my first engine build. Since this is my first build I strongly encourage feedback, both positive and negative!
Now I decided to use the F22B2 because of its strong cylinder walls and its ability to hold boost well. The stock internals, however, are not great at all for a performance engine. The rods are thin and weak, the pistons are pissed on, and the crank is a cast unit and not very strong. To remedy some of the issues here I opted for Bisimoto spec Arias 86mm pistons, Cal Auto Transpeed forged rods, and an H22 stock crank.
Now I know what some of you are thinking, the crank is about 4-5mm shorter so why use it? Well because its a forged unit so its good for up to 600hp, and I already have positive deck height with this rod/piston combo. This will fix my main concern of piston to head contact and it will allow for higher RPMs. At the expense of some low end power, which is fine since the car will be seeing road course duty when its all done. So I will spend little time under 3k. Along with this set up I will take the block to get decked approximately 0.040 to recover some compression. The head will see some shaving also. The estimated cr will be around 8.0:1 but that figure is up in the air until I get the block measured and so forth.

Concerns- possibility of the oil control rings coming out of the cylinders at bdc. The compression being too low to the point its just not ethical. Valve float at 8k due to fatigued springs.

There is more on the build and I'm going to update periodically with info and pics.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:06 PM   #2
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Subscribing to your thread man..good luck...i can't give much feedback but am definitely interested to see the outcome
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:10 PM   #3
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Subscribing to your thread man..good luck...i can't give much feedback but am definitely interested to see the outcome
Thanks man. I'm looking at it as a great chance to learn about engines. I do t expect to build a monster, just a very very reliable 350whp car I can beat on like it was rihanna and I was chris brown.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:06 PM   #4
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Here is a picture of the engine as is. It was built but the block was warped 0.008in and caused a huge leak, so this is round two for me and I decided to go a different direction with it.

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Old 02-14-2012, 10:12 PM   #5
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Haha iseewhatyoudidthere
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:31 PM   #6
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I disagree with your comment on the cranksaft. The 95mm crank is forged Just like the rest of the honda cranks.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:36 AM   #7
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I disagree with your comment on the cranksaft. The 95mm crank is forged Just like the rest of the honda cranks.
That's what I was thinking
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:04 PM   #8
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nice motor
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:44 AM   #9
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I think dedspool can help you with a turbo kit and tune he runs the streets and has the fastest honda in az built and tuned by himself.



Looks good so far man what kit you plannning on buying or building your own?
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:26 AM   #10
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I disagree with your comment on the cranksaft. The 95mm crank is forged Just like the rest of the honda cranks.
I'll take your word for it, I'd be willing to be you know more about it than me lol

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I think dedspool can help you with a turbo kit and tune he runs the streets and has the fastest honda in az built and tuned by himself.



Looks good so far man what kit you plannning on buying or building your own?
I'm building my own, ill post up pics for you later today
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:09 AM   #11
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Pics of the manifold and T04E turbo. The turbo will be rebuilt before use. The manifold was made by Spoolin Performance a couple years ago so its kinda dusty lol.




And dedspool isn't going to lay a finger on my car! I picked up a P72 and a Hondata S300 V.2 so Joe will be doing my tuning

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Old 02-15-2012, 11:28 AM   #12
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Why not throw a h23 head in while your at it????
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:32 PM   #13
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Well I have a spare head I was going to build up I think you can see it in one of the pics, but anyway I haven't yet considered the different heads I can use or if I want to even switch. I can make my power goal with the head that's on the block now so upgrading would just be an expense I don't need right now.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:23 PM   #14
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I dropped the oil pan today and took a look at one concern I had, if changing the crank would cause the oil control rings to come past the cylinder walls. Then I realized it will actually do the reverse and put the pistons more centered into the cylinders, meaning destroke it, hence the terms destroke haha. That's good news, over the next few days I Will completely disassemble and get the block, head, and crank to the machine shop for some work.
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Old 02-18-2012, 01:54 PM   #15
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What length rods did you use?
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:14 PM   #16
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They are standard f22 size, 141.5mm. Combined with the H22 crank this will put my rod/stroke ratio at 1.56, which is better than the stock 1.489 that I was working with. This set up should drop the pistons, with the block as is, to 0.149 below the deck, or rather just a little more than 1/8th of an inch. I will still mill approximately 0.050 off the block if possible. The limiting factor here is the oil pressure sensor on the rear of the deck.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:47 PM   #17
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Sir, in my opinion, you are making a mistake with that combination.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:57 PM   #18
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Please do elaborate before its too late!
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #19
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Using the shorter rod, then taking material off the block is the wrong way to go. Either use the stock f22 crank with the rods you have or use h22 length rods with the h22 crank. What is the compression height of the pistons you are using?
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #20
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The compression height of the ones I'm using is 30.73mm versus the stock 30.5mm. With the mods done as is I have an added 2cc in the chamber, dropping my compression from the designed 9.1:1 to near stock 8.87:1
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:55 PM   #21
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I really am confused by what you are trying to achieve. You seem really Hung up on compression ratio. Let's start over... What are you trying to do and why?
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:36 AM   #22
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I am trying to destroke my engine a little bit to move my powerband a little higher. The engine as is, is a long stroke engine and by shortening the stroke and boring the cylinders I can make it closer to being a square engine. Why? Because all the great engines are squared! It is a known fact that engines with the same displacement but different stroke ratios will make different power. The one with the better ratio is capable of making more power, that power is made in the upper rpms. Raise the ability to rev higher with a better stroke ratio and you create a better engine. It's all about friction loss from the rings during the stroke, shorter stroke equals less friction. By doing this build my undersquared F22 will become become squared with the likes of the 2JZ and SR20, which we all know are turbo monsters. I have to be weary of the compression because taking the stroke away from the engine will also drop the compression, I would like the ability to spool at a decent rate so it can't get too low.
Ultimate goal: overbuild a 350whp turbo engine that I firmly believe in to rev up to 8-8.5k and be reliable enough for the worst abuse I could put it through.
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:50 AM   #23
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I have been builing engines horribly wrong, according to your explanation above.

Use the h22 crank and rods. You will be more than able to achieve your goal reliably.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:41 AM   #24
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Lol, if I can find some cheap forged ones I just may, that'd save me from take an excessive amount off my block. But for now its kinda about using what I have to get it done since my original plan fell through.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:02 AM   #25
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Lol, if I can find some cheap forged ones I just may, that'd save me from take an excessive amount off my block. But for now its kinda about using what I have to get it done since my original plan fell through.
You will be sad if you take the material off of the block. Don't do it.

A set of stock h22 rods will handle 350 whp no problem.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:38 PM   #26
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What are the repercussions of milling it down too far?
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:05 AM   #27
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What are the repercussions of milling it down too far?
Once the material is gone... it's gone. Milling the block, like milling the head changes the camshaft/crankshaft orientation. Yes, this can be helped by the use of adjustable cam gears, but why make things much harder than they need to be?
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:40 AM   #28
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engine looks sexy but would agree with Scott on a few.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:11 AM   #29
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Ahh I see sensai, a Bisi adjustable gear was already in the plan
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:25 AM   #30
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Ahh I see sensai, a Bisi adjustable gear was already in the plan
In this case, the cam gear will be a "band aid" if you go your intended route.

You do realize that using the 90.7mm H22 stroke crank and the 143mm H22 rods will give you a 1.577 R/S ratio, right?
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