It starts with a 103mm crank... gets even more interesting from there. ;)

Damn I don't even know where to find something like that lol.
So I'm reading til my eyes burn and then I read some more.

Destroking an engine. I'm doing it wrong.

Here is why, destroking and engine should consist of a new crank and rod combo that will shorten the stroke BUT to avoid the mayhem I'm facing now with the slightly sunken pistons I should have got custom pistons with the wrist pin moved down to bring the piston surface flush with the deck.

Be this as it may, one way to fix such a problem? Longer rods. Which would also promote high end power and torque.

Soooooobasicallywhatimsayingisthatscottwasright

Maybe I can find some H22 rods for cheap? But I am also now even more curious to how the engine would perform the way I planned? Its hard for me to say but I'm imagining somewhat close to stock, just more reliable. That what I'm gonna ponder next.

Honestly, you had the right idea, but the rod choice was your only problem. You learned and that is all that matters.
Ponder your last sentence all you want, just don't create more work for yourself. You aren't reinventing the wheel.:biggrin:

Just cause a build looks good on paper doesn't mean it'll perform well or even to your expected goals. I ve seen engines that were nothing special, built on stock parts perform incredibly. And vice versa.

Yeah... My next 107mm srtroke H22 looks great on paper. ;) Just wait till you see it come to life! 107mm X 90mm = "K pisser offer"

Lolz Scott. Your giving away too much info.

Haha well I know BB4hardon is selling some rods so maybe he will hook me up. They are stock though and I really want the reliable forged ones!

Not really... Anyone who has ever stuffed a 103mm crank into a H22 is gonna say that it can't be done. I already have, just not a working engine yet. I have 2 details left on the piston to work out.

Once I get my current 103mm running like it should (360whp+) then I will have a clue as to where my cam profiles need to be for the even larger engine.

I am not meaning to make this thread about me, so lets get back to the original topic. :)

Just add 9mm ARP pro rod bolts and have them resized. You will be very happy. :)

I have ARP rod bolts on this set I wonder if they will work on the stocks. Mario said he would let me know about the rods.
And don't worry about thread jacking, general h-f engine talk is encouraged :)

I'd say if you can't get a set of stock H22 rods save for the forged beams. I sold my last set of forged Eagle H22 rods unfortunately..

Very good info and input helps us turbo nrwbies alot, hope to see this build finished, I'm thinking of boosting my a6 in my cb7 but I'm in the process of gathering alot of info first before I feel comfortable enough to start doing anything, will be keeping up on this project and learning somethings from all of you

Yeah you can't beat forged ones, I think my buddy has a set but Idk if he wants to give them up.

The only thing I can suggest is to Google like crazy and ask tons of questions!

yeah ive been googling like crazy. ive been on H-tech, bisis, cb7tuner and a bunch of other forums i aint never heard of lol but gathering info is what i learned to do the hard way when i first got on azht lol

the f22 has to be one of the most overlooked motors in the honda line. they are very good motors i loved my 16 in my 93 ex and loved my h22 even more.lol. and when it comes to these motors i would follow scotts input. he has built some nasty motors.. have fun with the build bro at least you are taking your time and thinking things threw im sure it will come out very nice whatever you decide...

Bisimotos forum sucks balls! Hardly any info at all there. But if you email them they will answer anything you want in depth.

Lol that's called balancing. Very important. Usually you balance the entire rotating assembly.

Yeah id love to get rid of some of that counterweight. It's only a sixty dollar process and is nothing but win :) I just need to get those rods and get going again. I might just buy some new ones soon if I can't find some decent used ones. New eagle rods are just under 300 bucks, 320 for Bisi ones.

Correction... he is "weighing". LOL

Yeah it'd do no good to balance the crank off that weight up there, that was just one of those "I wonder" moments since my build is on hiatus. I'll order the rods either this week coming up or the next. Then I can get some real weights and balance the crankshaft if need be. I don't know many people who have actually taken this step on their builds.

Out of the almost 300 engines I have built over the years, not a single one has left WITHOUT doing this step.

Yes I know its not technically "balancing" but simplified its what balancing is. I'd highly recommend doing this to any engine where you replace bearings and rings. So pretty much any build.
I didn't know you balanced Scott?

I was just messing with you, but even still, he is just weighing the parts. "Balancing" is grinding or drilling material off of the parts to make them all weigh the same. You already know this... ;)

I don't do the balancing "in house", but yes EVERY engine I have built has had it's entire rotating assembly balanced. In some cases I even have the crank pulleys, flywheels and clutch assemblies balanced as well.

Scott does serious bidness.
Good news guise, I forgot I gave a buddy of mine an h22 like a year ago and he offered to give me the rods for free since he hasn't done anything with it. It's only three rods because one is broken but I also found a guy in phx with an extra rod. So a new set of rods for me for $15 total :)
Scott you mentioned ARP hardware for the rods, would you happen to have a part number I could have to get the rod bolts strengthened? And about how much hp do you estimate I could throw at them?

Make sure that all of the markings on the "web" of each rod are the same. Also make sure that the markings on the rod cap are the same.

I don't have the ARP number off the top of my head, but they are Pro series 9mm bolts.

The stock ones cannot be strengthened, but they can be replaced.

You should have no problem with 400 to 450 whp (with tuning) on these.

Yeah that's what I meant, strengthen the rods with the ARP hardware. I'll spend some time tonight googling it.

Btw the ARP rod bolts on those F22 forged rods should work the same on the H22 rods...
I need my rotating assembly balanced but my machinist is lagging and I don't want to take him all my parts and wait 4 weeks for it to get done.

Oh and Rzagizza, if your worried about strength on stock rods, why not cryo treat them? Its fairly cheap.

I was talking to a group of guys about that, i have noooo clue where to get it done. And turnaround time for my crank would be high too. Ghey....:dumbass:

? about the balancing. don't you actually "over balance" to make up for higher rpm? I worked in a shop that did all of this but left before I could acutally learn much about balancing. also we mainly only worked on V8's. 80's and older I know inline motors are differant as far as balancing and such goes.

Once it is balanced, it is balanced. RPM doesn't matter.

Update:
Block and head were disassembled to be sent to the machine shop tomorrow morning.

Got my head and block back today from the machine shop. Also installed a new thermo unit on the head since the last one broke off. The head has all new seals and a three angle valve job. The block is in good shape now and ready to be assembled once I get my rods. I also spoke to the machinist about taking my old rods off and putting new ones on my pistons, to which he replied that there is no guarantee things will be ok. He says sometimes the pistons break due to the press they have to use. I'm not too thrilled about that since the pistons have like zero miles on them, so I may be looking to another shop for that. Also checked the cc's on my head and came up with 47, I will probably get bored later tonight and slip the crank in with the shorter rods and crunch some numbers to see what my static compression ratio will be.

Um aren't your pistons and rods forged? They should be floated wrist pins and a breeze to take apart. I wouldn't trust that shop if they can't handle that simple task.

sound like he should send the motor over to you and get it taken care of properly so he stops wasting his hard earned cash on this and that and just have a running motor that does the job with out blowing up either the top or bottom end just saying

That's what had me like "huh?", either way my trust in them dropped.

Nothing will blow on this thing, its over built as it is. Plus I don't want anyone else to build it for me because its my first build and I'm learning a ton as I go. I know for a fact my next engine will go much smoother lol.

thats respectful and good job man u gots more balls then i do at this time i'll be looking to swap within the next 2 years maybe a built b18 idk yet i need more research myself

What engine do you have in there now?

a20a carb its nice but have NO BALLS lol