12 sec all-motor b20vtec?
 

ok so here is the deal i been at this for a while and i been thinking what would i need to be able to hit the 12sec 1/4 mile on a b20vtec all-motor? is it worth it? what do you gyus think? any ideas? cost maybe any info or help will be appreciated..... oh i almost forgot the motor will be on a gutted cx model eg hatch

Yes

Can't wait to build it and its going to be worth it at d end babe

Yes what?

I know it will...I'm excited as much as you are.

\you should build..

12 sec 1/4? yes

IS it worth it? yes

Several routes you can go, the budget build or the more expensive route.

Budget

Rs machine pistons
Stock resized rods with arp bolts
springs/retainers
pro1's/2
supporting mods, ie. intake, header, etc. keep it simple
Hondata/neptune
Locash/good dyno tune

The motor I have is a b20/vtec. 84.5x95 previous owner drove it to 11.8.

Start with a good block and a head that has not been messed with. Don't buy MSD ignition products, Aem, Injen, or what ever other intakes out there. Like I said, keep it simple.

Ok well this is what I got so far. I'm going to be using my old b20b that spun a bearing(as soon as I heard the knock the motor was shut off so I'm hoping no major damage was caused ) was bone stock as well. I bought some rs machine 84mm itr style pistons bout six months ago. would that work as far the pistons go?

yes

If the sleeves are with in shape, no scoring, no deep scratches you should just be able to hone it and use those pistons.

Ok cool thanks for the info I'm actually going to try to send it to the machine shop soon to get everything checked out pretty soon. I was thinking of getting some eagle rods to help out on the higher reving.

Would Chrome chipped ecu on a tune be good enough or would it be better to invest in the hondata/neptune ?

You can skip on the rods, like I said, keep it simple. Shot peened rods re-sized with ARP bolts.

Get a GOOD dyno tune!! Emphasize on GOOD. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE TUNE!! I say Hondata and Neptune because we have a great local tuner he just happens to also be a vendor on this site and that's what he tunes.

The cars i've seen tuned on chrome are usually street tuned and idle like shit.

Honestly, I say get the eagles.

They're $297 shipped last time I checked...
And there's a guy selling a brand new set on here for 200.

After buying your ARP's, and sending them to the machine shop for resizing and shotpeening, you've spent almost as much, and the forged eagle's are still going to be stronger... and new!

There is not a reason to get the Eagles. They are heavier and the strength difference isn't so critical on this set-up. I would add arp rod bolts to the OEM rods and resize them. Simple.

Oem LS with arps is perfect for an all motor build that won't see 9k
Any high perf build should have the rotating assy balanced and rods shotpeened and sized so that kinda washes out the price difference cuz you will still want to balance the eagles to your assy. And I got all my rodwork done for $80 so using rods that came with the block I saved 120-220 on rods alone.

I also agree to go with hondata or neptune because that is what our local Honda tuner uses. Youcould find a chip/software setup at your local FiliB's for $5 but Joe won't tune it so you'd be fuxkzor3d

This

and this, balance.

Thanks all for the input and yeah true when I had my old set up I only took it to 8k max. What' do you guys think would be the best rev. Point on this. And I'm just gonna stick with the oem rods.

As far as cams I was thinkin runningthe pro 3's with a b16 head skunk manifold and maybe a larger tb Idk yet tho any opinions on head part ?

The tune will determine this

I have built many 12 and 11 second B20vtec engines. I would not recomend going with a pro3 cam. I typically use a tuner stage 2 or a pro 1 at the largest is what I use. Unless, you are building an all out race engine with sleeves, rods, killer compression, I dont see any need for a larger set of cams.

Couple of questions for you.

1: who is building the motor??
2: Do you want to run pump gas? race gas?
3: Have you done any research? google any question you have i bet you find the answer read read read!
4: Headwork? porting?

Goodluck it will be fun

Maybe pro2's?

Pro3's are HUGE for what you want.

1. Im doing the build my self... lol i've done several stock rebuilds and i just thought i try it.
2. im trying to run some race gas i was told that e85 would also work

and well im looking around but i would def. want to hear some opinions on machine shops. i definateky want to run better valves and port and polish the head.

when the time comes wish me luck lol im taking my time on this so hopefully everything goes well and as expected.

eh i've been quoted a bit more than that, so for only 200 i was strongly leaning toward that eagle's in this instance...



But to be honest, a gutted CX hatch won't need much at all. Once my ARP rod bolts go in and I get re-tuned, my oem b20/b16/itr cam combo with bolt ons would be enough to put your hatch into the high 12's with proper suspension/tire/transmission setup

Kings Balancing did my rod work for my b20vtec. I will not use them again though.

why is that?

couldnt shotpeen the rods said that abrasive blasting em was the same...Just didnt leave me super confident about their work pretty much. Im not bashing em by any means, just not my style thats all. I go to CBA in Chandler now. they arent the cheapest but their ppls and equipment are very good

kings balancing on my side of town?

ok where would that be at? and any other suggestions on any other machine shops?