AZHT.net

AZHT.net (http://www.azht.net/forum/index.php)
-   Accord + Prelude (http://www.azht.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=88)
-   -   Rza's F22B2 Build (http://www.azht.net/forum/showthread.php?t=165631)

Rzarectah 02-20-2012 03:59 PM

Well theoretically any block that is milled is going to have the timing altered, not just mine. It's not an uncommon issue, but the ability to adjust timing on the dizzy remedies this, along with the cams gear, as I'm positive you know.
As for the rod/stroke, I wish it was going to the be 1.577 as you stated, mine will be 1.56 because my crank is 3.57 and the rods are 5.572, I took this into consideration too when trying to shoot for the optimal 1.71-1.75 I've read about. That's just not possible for my set up without going all out with custom parts, but its far better than the stock 1.489. For those reading who don't know, the lower the number of your rod/stroke ratio the more stress you're putting on your cylinder walls.

Rzarectah 02-20-2012 04:10 PM

Also I just got some goodies in from Majestic Honda. Just a new water pipe for the back of the block, a thermal unit to read the temp on the head for my temp guage, and a stock F23 head gasket since I'm running a 86mm bore now.

2point6 02-20-2012 05:02 PM

Respectfully, it sounds like you have a project. I wish you success.

Rzarectah 02-20-2012 05:33 PM

I agree with you lol, and thank you sir.

SovietSuperSoldier 02-20-2012 08:44 PM

I have to agree with Scott. I've built many engines and this combo your going with is unusual at best. Why mix and match crank and rods when there was an obvious solution right in front of you? If your worried about compression why didn't you just get a piston made to your specs? This build sounds very poorly planned. And your goal is easily possible with less money than what I'm sure you've spent. Also I don't know where you've been getting your info but Honda only uses forged cranks.
You do know Bisi isn't the end all best F22 builder?
I've gotten 300wtq out of a nearly stock F22A4 with boost.
It just seems like your focusing too much on the not so important details.
That's my .02 cents.

SovietSuperSoldier 02-20-2012 08:53 PM

Oh and also forgot to mention that T4 turbo is overkill for your low comp setup. Its going to take too long to spool. You couldve made better useable power with a super 60 trim T3.
I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just giving advice from Real world experience.
But good luck with your project. They're fun to build!

2point6 02-20-2012 09:22 PM

Just for the record... I run a 1.38 R/S ratio. ;)
and I don't listen to Bisi.

Rzarectah 02-20-2012 09:46 PM

Thanks guys I know this one is a strange set up and I haven't got much from people except scratched heads lol, but I see this combo of internals as a good choice even though its not often used. I see lots of people use the F22 crank in the H but never vice versa. Using stock internals to get my goal is achievable but provides very little room for growth later when/if I choose to go drag and want gobs of power.
On a side note, I hear people say that they don't agree with Bisi very often lol. I don't agree or disagree with him on any particular subject I just like the fact he makes decent parts for my engine. If toda, spoon, or the likes made this stuff for a decent price I'd be on it.
You guys are helping a ton here with the input, because its making me further dig into my choices, and on paper this build looks good. It's a nice square engine, good rod/stroke ratio, strong internals, should be good to go. It's just uncommon, which is good cuz I hate running what the guy down the road has too.

2point6 02-20-2012 10:12 PM

Sometimes being different, is like being that guy who drives a Yugo with spinners... just a thought.

Rzarectah 02-20-2012 10:19 PM

Lmao, but hey Scott I'm curious as to what setup you are running to get that 1.38?

2point6 02-20-2012 10:27 PM

It starts with a 103mm crank... gets even more interesting from there. ;)

Rzarectah 02-21-2012 12:14 AM

Damn I don't even know where to find something like that lol.
So I'm reading til my eyes burn and then I read some more.

Destroking an engine. I'm doing it wrong.

Here is why, destroking and engine should consist of a new crank and rod combo that will shorten the stroke BUT to avoid the mayhem I'm facing now with the slightly sunken pistons I should have got custom pistons with the wrist pin moved down to bring the piston surface flush with the deck.

Be this as it may, one way to fix such a problem? Longer rods. Which would also promote high end power and torque.

Soooooobasicallywhatimsayingisthatscottwasright

Maybe I can find some H22 rods for cheap? But I am also now even more curious to how the engine would perform the way I planned? Its hard for me to say but I'm imagining somewhat close to stock, just more reliable. That what I'm gonna ponder next.

2point6 02-21-2012 09:32 AM

Honestly, you had the right idea, but the rod choice was your only problem. You learned and that is all that matters.
Ponder your last sentence all you want, just don't create more work for yourself. You aren't reinventing the wheel.:biggrin:

SovietSuperSoldier 02-21-2012 09:34 AM

Just cause a build looks good on paper doesn't mean it'll perform well or even to your expected goals. I ve seen engines that were nothing special, built on stock parts perform incredibly. And vice versa.

2point6 02-21-2012 09:39 AM

Yeah... My next 107mm srtroke H22 looks great on paper. ;) Just wait till you see it come to life! 107mm X 90mm = "K pisser offer"

SovietSuperSoldier 02-21-2012 09:52 AM

Lolz Scott. Your giving away too much info.

Rzarectah 02-21-2012 10:00 AM

Haha well I know BB4hardon is selling some rods so maybe he will hook me up. They are stock though and I really want the reliable forged ones!

2point6 02-21-2012 10:21 AM

Not really... Anyone who has ever stuffed a 103mm crank into a H22 is gonna say that it can't be done. I already have, just not a working engine yet. I have 2 details left on the piston to work out.

Once I get my current 103mm running like it should (360whp+) then I will have a clue as to where my cam profiles need to be for the even larger engine.

I am not meaning to make this thread about me, so lets get back to the original topic. :)

2point6 02-21-2012 10:23 AM

Just add 9mm ARP pro rod bolts and have them resized. You will be very happy. :)

Rzarectah 02-21-2012 10:42 AM

I have ARP rod bolts on this set I wonder if they will work on the stocks. Mario said he would let me know about the rods.
And don't worry about thread jacking, general h-f engine talk is encouraged :)

SovietSuperSoldier 02-21-2012 07:59 PM

I'd say if you can't get a set of stock H22 rods save for the forged beams. I sold my last set of forged Eagle H22 rods unfortunately..

4dr_ed3 02-22-2012 09:40 AM

Very good info and input helps us turbo nrwbies alot, hope to see this build finished, I'm thinking of boosting my a6 in my cb7 but I'm in the process of gathering alot of info first before I feel comfortable enough to start doing anything, will be keeping up on this project and learning somethings from all of you

Rzarectah 02-22-2012 04:16 PM

Yeah you can't beat forged ones, I think my buddy has a set but Idk if he wants to give them up.

The only thing I can suggest is to Google like crazy and ask tons of questions!

4dr_ed3 02-23-2012 10:35 AM

yeah ive been googling like crazy. ive been on H-tech, bisis, cb7tuner and a bunch of other forums i aint never heard of lol but gathering info is what i learned to do the hard way when i first got on azht lol

ray369 02-23-2012 08:23 PM

the f22 has to be one of the most overlooked motors in the honda line. they are very good motors i loved my 16 in my 93 ex and loved my h22 even more.lol. and when it comes to these motors i would follow scotts input. he has built some nasty motors.. have fun with the build bro at least you are taking your time and thinking things threw im sure it will come out very nice whatever you decide...

Rzarectah 02-23-2012 08:46 PM


Rzarectah 02-23-2012 08:51 PM

Bisimotos forum sucks balls! Hardly any info at all there. But if you email them they will answer anything you want in depth.

SovietSuperSoldier 02-24-2012 09:37 AM

Lol that's called balancing. Very important. Usually you balance the entire rotating assembly.

Rzarectah 02-24-2012 02:16 PM

Yeah id love to get rid of some of that counterweight. It's only a sixty dollar process and is nothing but win :) I just need to get those rods and get going again. I might just buy some new ones soon if I can't find some decent used ones. New eagle rods are just under 300 bucks, 320 for Bisi ones.

2point6 02-24-2012 03:37 PM

Correction... he is "weighing". LOL


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:15 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
ŠAZHT.net 2004-2021